Congratulations, you've found a replacement engine. You saw it on Facebook Marketplace and it's half the price your local garage wanted to charge you, or maybe you've been searching eBay and found that classic car engine you've been after for your restoration project, or maybe you just won the lottery and want to blow some cash on something you don't actually need (we don't judge here). Whatever the case may be, you're now just faced with the fact that you need to transport 150 kilograms of oil, metal, and sharp bits from Lancashire to your garage in Surrey without it turning into an exorbitantly expensive paperweight.
Engines are awkward. Very awkward. They're heavy, they're filthy, they've got bits sticking out of them that will definitely ruin your upholstery if you're not careful, and if you drop one you really should not be picking it back up yourself. Oh, and by the way, they leak. Oil, coolant, whatever else was still sloshing around inside that engine block, it will leak out all over the place and all over something you really didn't want it on.
Oh, and it'll also have all that other stuff on, like an exhaust manifold, a driveshaft and half a dozen other ancillary bits that don't move around as much but are just as likely to get broken if you're not careful.
Let's talk about actually moving the damned things without it becoming an utter disaster.
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Get a Free QuoteHow heavy are we actually talking?
Oh, depends what you're collecting, doesn't it?
A small four cylinder petrol engine from a Fiesta or Corsa type thing? 100-120kg. Heavy but not unmanageable with the right equipment and a couple of able-bodied adults to move it.
Six cylinder engines, diesel engines, engines with a turbo or supercharger or other ancillaries still attached – this is the 150-250kg region. A bit more than two or three average adults give or take.
V8 engines? Classic car engines with all the ancillaries still bolted on? Big diesel engines from vans or trucks? 300kg plus is easily doable. At that weight, you're not moving it without proper equipment. End of.
And that's just the engine block. If you're buying a complete engine with the gearbox still attached, you're looking at another 50-100kg on top. We're suddenly in the realm of something as heavy as a very large motorbike, except it's all concentrated weight with no wheels and no convenient handles.
Why your mate's Transit isn't the answer
Let's be honest, the first thing that goes through your head when you win that eBay auction is "I'll just borrow Dave's van for the day, how hard can it be?"
Very hard, actually.
Getting the engine into the back of the van is problem number one. Unless the seller's got an engine crane or a forklift, you're effectively going to be trying to manhandle 150kg of awkward metal up into the back of a van, even if they've kindly offered to lift it onto the tail-lift for you. That's a recipe for someone getting hurt. Or the engine getting dropped. Or both.
Plus the oil and fluids. Engines leak. They always leak. Even when they're supposedly drained, there's always something left in there. That's going straight onto Dave's van floor, and good luck trying to explain that one when you return it.
It's also about weight distribution. A 200kg engine crammed in the back of an otherwise empty van completely changes how that vehicle handles. Braking distances increase, the steering is different, the whole thing sits lower at the back. If you've never driven a van with that much weight in the back then you're effectively learning on the job. On public roads. With an expensive engine sliding about inside because you didn't properly secure it to the van.
Ideal.
Different engines, different problems
Not all engines are created equal when it comes to transport.
Small modern engines (three and four cylinder petrol engines) – now, these are actually quite straightforward. Relatively light, reasonably compact, and don't have masses of other bits bolted on. Still need careful handling, of course, but they're not the nightmare scenario.
Classic car engines – here's where it gets fun. Older engines are more likely to come with everything still attached. Carburettors, distributors, alternators, starter motors, exhaust manifolds – the lot. Makes them heavier, makes them more fragile, and gives you more things that can get damaged in transit. Plus parts for these things are often expensive or difficult to source so you really don't want anything getting broken.
Diesel engines – heavy. Very heavy. The blocks are thicker, the components are beefier, the whole thing just weighs more than a comparable petrol engine. If it's a modern diesel with a turbo, intercooler and all the associated emissions gubbins then you've also got a lot of delicate bits that really don't appreciate being knocked about.
Complete engine and gearbox assemblies – and this is when you need to be a little realistic about what you've got yourself into. Something that can weigh 250-400kg depending on the vehicle. This is not a DIY job unless you have serious equipment and experience. You're looking at needing a specialist car parts courier who really knows what they're doing.
The Marketplace reality
Facebook Marketplace, eBay, Gumtree. They're all absolutely chock full of engines. Salvage engines from breakers yards, engines that someone has had rebuilt by a specialist, engines from restoration projects that for whatever reason never quite got finished, absolute bargains if you know what you're looking for and what you're doing.
The thing is that "collection only" appears on around 95% of listings.
Can't really blame the sellers here, to be fair. They don't want the hassle of arranging transport, they don't want the liability if something does go wrong and, quite frankly, they just want it gone from their garage so they can park their actual car in there again.
Which means that there's the perfect engine you've found but it's only actually useful if you can physically get to it and collect it. That engine in Scotland might be exactly what you need but if you're in Cornwall and don't fancy a 600 mile round trip then in practice it might as well be on the moon.
This is where having access to a proper marketplace collection service makes all the difference. Distance stops becoming the limiting factor. That rare engine three counties over becomes just as viable as the one down the road. Well, almost. You still have to factor in delivery costs, but we'll get to that.
But What If I Just Hire A Van?
Ok, fair point about Dave's Transit not being an option any more. You don't want to borrow his van. You'll hire one.
Luton van for the day, probably £80-100 plus fuel and insurance excess. Doesn't sound too bad, does it? Still have the same loading issues, though, don't you? Unless the seller has a forklift or engine crane to hand, you're still trying to hoick a 150kg engine up into a van. That means ramps, straps and a bunch of people who have done it all before and know what they're doing.
You can hire an engine crane, of course you can. About £40-50 from a tool hire place for the day. Now you have to go and collect that as well, fit it into the van somehow, make sure you can actually use it at the collection point (does the seller have the space? Is there a suitable hard surface to use it on? ), then reverse the whole process on your end.
Oh, and you're driving a van you've not driven before, with a heavy load that needs to be properly secured, probably on roads you don't know very well. If you're collecting from a breakers yard or business they may well be closed at weekends, which means you're losing a day's pay as well.
Factor in all the time and hassle, the van hire, the fuel and insurance excess, the tool hire, the risk of something going wrong, and suddenly having someone else do it for you doesn't sound quite so expensive.
What Proper Engine Transport Involves
Real engine couriers are not "guys with vans who will chuck your engine in the back and hope for the best".
They have the right vehicles. Usually vans with tail lifts or pickups with cranes. That means no faffing about with dodgy ramps or trying to manhandle heavy engines up into high van floors. Loading and unloading is simple, safe and quick.
They have the right equipment. Straps, chains, engine stands, padding – whatever's needed to secure the engine safely and prevent damage in transit. No more of your engine clonking around loose in the back of a van or sliding into the sides whenever they brake.
They have the right insurance. Proper goods-in-transit cover. Not "mate's van insurance that definitely doesn't cover commercial loads" but actual business insurance with a clear procedure in place if something does go wrong. You're not arguing over whose problem it is if there's an accident or damage.
And they do it all day, every day. Proper engine couriers will have done this many times before. They know how to handle engines safely, they know what can go wrong and how to prevent it. You're not paying them to learn on the job at the expense of your expensive engine block.
The Price of Engine Delivery
Of course the big question for everyone is "how much?" But honestly, it does depend on a few different factors.
Distance is the biggest one. Short distance would be under 50 miles. We're normally talking £60-100 for a typical four-cylinder engine there. If there's no tricky access at either end and the engine's ready to go then that's it. Anything that needs special handling or access will push it up.
Medium distance is about 50-150 miles. We're getting into "picked up a cracking deal in the next county" territory now. Could still be worth it if the engine itself is cheap enough to make up the extra travel costs over buying locally.
Long distance is over 150 miles. Now we're talking in the region of £180-350 depending on how far. London to Manchester with an engine? Not gonna be cheap, obviously. But if it's a rare engine or you're saving £500+ on the engine then the maths may well still work out.
Size and weight matter. A small 1.0 litre three-cylinder engine will cost a lot less to transport than a complete 3.0 litre diesel V6 with turbo and all the bits and bobs attached. The courier has to take into account the weight, equipment and time involved.
Full engine and gearbox units cost more because they're both heavier and more awkward. Some couriers charge by weight, some by size, some a combination of both. Never hurts to be specific as to exactly what you're shipping when you're getting quotes.
Access also makes a difference. Ground floor garage with van access no problem. Engine's in a basement workshop at the bottom of a flight of stairs? Extra time and effort, extra equipment and risk. The courier will charge accordingly.
Preparing Your Engine for Transport
Ok, you've got your courier booked and the collection date set. You can't just leave the engine as-is and expect them to come and sort it out.
Drain all the fluids. And I do mean all of them. Oil, coolant, whatever fuel that's still in there – you need to get it all out. Most couriers won't touch an engine that still has fluids in it, and even if they will it's just asking for leaks everywhere. Be sure to use proper containers for the fluids and take them to your local recycling centre for disposal. No, you can't just pour it all down the drain because that's both illegal and really bad for the environment.
Remove/secure loose parts. Anything that's not actually bolted to the engine block – alternators, starter motors, ancillary brackets etc – either take it all off or make absolutely sure it's properly secured. Cable ties, tape, whatever works. You don't want these falling off all over the place in transit.
Protect delicate parts. Got any exposed ports where pipes used to be? Stick some rags in them or cover them with tape. You don't want dirt and moisture getting in there. If there's a turbo or other expensive bits on it then think about wrapping in bubble wrap or some padding. Might sound like overkill until you're filling in an insurance claim for a damaged turbocharger.
Clean the worst off. I'm not talking about making it spotless, but brush off the worst of the oil and dirt. At least then you and the courier can actually see the condition it's in before collection, which is important if there's any comeback later over damage.
The eBay Problem (And Solution)
It's a good one for engines. Breakers yards advertise their stock, salvage companies move engines they've reconditioned, private sellers move engines from restoration projects that didn't quite go to plan. You can find literally any engine from any car as long as you are prepared to be patient and wait.
But then you win the auction and you have seven days to collect it. The seller is in Scotland and you are in Kent and you have no earthly idea how you are going to do this.
This is exactly the point you need access to a collection and delivery service you can trust. Because that bargain you've just won stops being a bargain when you can't collect it and the seller gives you negative feedback on eBay and the whole thing turns into a big old ball of stress. (More on buying engines from eBay in our dedicated guide)
Smart move: Book the courier before you even bid. Really. Get a quote, work out how much it's going to cost you, take it into account when deciding your maximum bid amount. No point bidding for an engine and winning it at £300 if it's then going to cost you £200 to collect it and there's another one 20 miles up the road for £450. Total cost of purchase is the number you should be looking at, not just the price paid for the engine.
Common Mistakes That'll Cost You
Watched enough of this stuff to know the top things that go wrong.
Seller thinks the engine is ready to go. Turn up or courier turn up and the engine is still in the car. Or it is drained but the ancillaries are still attached to it. Or it is covered in oil and you can't actually get a grip on it. If you are the buyer make sure you speak to the seller and confirm with them that the engine is actually out of the car and ready to be collected. If you are the seller make sure you know what ready actually is.
Ignoring weight limits. Some couriers have weight limits for what they will handle without special equipment and will refuse loads that are over it if they are not told beforehand. You tell them it is a small engine and they turn up to a complete V8 and gearbox weighing 350kg not 100kg. They cannot collect it. Always be 100% clear with your courier about what it is you are having them collect and move.
Access issues. Engine is in a garage. Perfect. But can the courier get their van close enough to load it? Is there a dropped kerb or do they have to load it from your front garden? Is the garage door wide enough? Are there overhead pipes or beams that mean they can't use an engine crane to remove the engine from the car? Check all this before booking the courier.
Taking the cheapest quote without asking questions. That quote that is half of everyone else's? They are half price for a reason. It could be that they do not have proper insurance. It could be that they are going to turn up in a totally unsuitable vehicle. It could be that they don't know what they are doing with engines and you are their unwitting guinea pig. Sometimes the temptation to save £50 will cost you £500 in engine damage and stress.
Not reading the terms. Exactly what is and what is not included in the price? Kerbside delivery or delivery to your garage? Who is responsible in the event of damage? What is the claims process? How long have you to inspect it? Read the terms and conditions before you book not when something goes wrong and it's too late.
DIY (And When You Absolutely Should Not)
Fine. DIY is obviously a good idea if A) you have the time, B) you have the experience and C) you have the equipment necessary to do the job safely and properly. Small engine, 20 miles away, you've got a proper set of trolleys, know how to use them and have done it dozens of times before? Great, go for it. Plenty of people do it all the time.
But please be honest with yourself about what it actually takes.
Can you safely lift that amount of weight? Do you actually have the right equipment or access to it if you don't? Do you have the help of people who actually know what they're doing and can advise? Do you actually have a suitable vehicle to move the engine in? Do you have the right insurance in place in case something goes wrong?
If the answer to any of those is "eh, not really" or "I'll figure it out" then stop. You are going to seriously injure yourself and/or damage the engine. Guaranteed. And then you'll be ringing up a professional courier, probably at silly o'clock in the morning, with blood pouring out of your back and an engine with a snapped flywheel, except now you are also dealing with injury and/or damaged engine compensation claims.
DIY is fine, sometimes, in very specific circumstances. Know your limitations.
If you're selling – make it easy
You selling an engine? Make it easier for people to buy it.
Say you can deliver it.
Nine times out of ten private sellers put "collection only" in their listings and then moan when they can't shift it. You've just massively reduced the number of people who are going to seriously enquire about your engine. You've just restricted the market for your engine to people within a reasonable distance of you. 20-30 miles, max 50 if someone's really keen. That's it.
Say "delivery available at buyers cost" in your listing and watch the enquiries roll in. You've just opened it up to people all over the country. Now not everyone will want delivery, and some will be put off by the cost, but some will, and that is the people who will buy your engine at a good price and you'll have sold it within days.
Get a few delivery quotes beforehand so you know approximately what you can offer people when they ask. Add a fiver or tenner if you want to cover your own time arranging it – nobody is going to complain about a tenner on top for your time.
Makes you look professional, it makes the sale easier for the buyer, and people are often willing to pay more because you've removed the hassle.
So What Can Actually Go Wrong?
In the vast majority of cases nothing at all. Courier turns up, loads it properly, delivers it safely. Job done. Everyone is happy.
But sometimes it does go wrong.
The engine arrives damaged – something's broken, something's been knocked, there's damage that wasn't there before. This is where those 20 photos you took of the engine before collection come in handy, right? You'll need them, along with more photos of the damage and your booking confirmation. The decent couriers will have a straightforward claims process. Follow it, provide the evidence and keep calm and rational.
The engine doesn't arrive at all – a very rare but not impossible occurrence. The courier went to the wrong address, the seller wasn't there when they arrived or something got mixed up. This is a communications issue. Ensure you get confirmation of the addresses before collection, that everyone knows what's happening and when, and any update problems are communicated. Most of these can be solved within an hour once people start talking to each other rather than making assumptions.
The engine arrives but it's the wrong one – surprisingly common with salvage yards. You ordered a 2.0 diesel and they've sent a 1.6 petrol. That's the seller's fault, not the couriers, but it's still something you need to deal with. Document the mistake, contact the seller and arrange for the engine to be returned or replaced. Good sellers will sort it, bad sellers will try to argue with you. That's why buying from known, reputable salvage yards with proper returns policies is important.
The thing with all of the above is that with a properly insured courier with transparent T&Cs, these are the worst case scenarios. You know what you're getting, you know what happens if something does go wrong, you're not relying on a one-man-band courier being personally affronted by you having the cheek to claim for damage.
Is Professional Engine Courier Service Worth Paying For?
It's all well and good saying this stuff, but you're staring at a quote of £150 to move an engine 100 miles and part of you is thinking "yeah but that seems like a lot of money to pay someone to move a lump of metal".
And that's fair enough. But it's also worth asking "what is that £150 actually buying me?"
No time off work. No van hire. No engine crane hire. No risk of injury. No stress over whether you've strapped it down properly or not. No worrying about driving a van you're not used to. No arriving at the seller's and realising that you've got no practical way of actually loading this into the van. No ending up in A&E because you tried to lift something that was genuinely too heavy for you.
It's buying expertise. It's buying proper equipment. It's buying insurance and peace of mind. It's buying your Saturday back to do literally anything other than drive halfway across the country in a hired van with a dodgy back from lifting an engine.
If you actually add up what it costs to do it yourself – not just in financial terms but in time, stress and risk – in the vast majority of cases the professional courier service actually comes out cheaper overall. It might not in pure pounds, but in real terms? Yeah, in the real terms it usually does.
Get Your Engine Collected Today
Decision Time
How you get your engine from A to B is down to you. Nobody can or should tell you how to make that decision.
Just make sure you're realistic about what it actually involves, rather than what you think it might involve. Factor in everything properly, get more than one quote if you're going the professional route, check the reviews – they're more important than the price. Ask questions before you commit to anything.
The engine you've found on eBay or Facebook or your mate's garage might be the one you need at half the price your garage quoted you. And it's only a bargain if you can get it home safely and in working order.
Because paying £300 for an engine and then another £500 to repair the damage that happened during collection is not a bargain. It's an expensive lesson in false economy.
So think it through, price it properly and then make the decision that actually makes sense for you.